Watches & Wonders 2023 – Part 1

With the wide range of brands that we offer, it’s been an exciting time to see the releases for Watches & Wonders 2023. In this 3-part series, we cover all the main highlights, showcasing the latest offerings from the brand to whet your horological appetite.

Date May 12, 2023
Author Sincere Watch

With the wide range of brands that we offer, it’s been an exciting time to see the releases for Watches & Wonders 2023. In this 3-part series, we cover all the main highlights, showcasing the latest offerings from the brand to whet your horological appetite.

In part 1, we turn our focus to TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Zenith, Chopard, Bell & Ross and Tudor. Among these releases, there were two main themes that were evident. The first, that there were quite a few innovative chronographs that were launched. The second, that there was a deeper appreciation of heritage that was in evidence with the releases – an unsurprising fact given that these are brands that have been around a long time.

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue


The new BR 03-93 GMT BLUE from Bell & Ross follows on from the BR 03-93 GMT previously which had a half black and half red bezel matched with a black dial. In contrast to that model, this year’s BR 03-93 GMT BLUE comes with a blue dial, which is appropriately matched with a half blue and half gray bezel, which like all watches from the brand attests to clear functionality, with the blue displays for daytime and gray to indicate night, used in accordance with the central red hand to show a second time zone.

The color scheme is decidedly more relaxing in feel and some pundits have suggested that it should be nicknamed the “Captain America”, because of the color scheme that along with the red GMT hand of the watch, recalls the iconic Marvel character. Though you should probably be the judge of that with the watch on the wrist.

The overall presentation, with the color scheme, the stainless steel case, and the bi-coloured anodized aluminum bezel does give the watch a vintage charm, since it somewhat references GMT watch designs that first emerged in the 1950’s.

Bell & Ross M48_BR-03-Diver-White-Bronze


The BR 03-92 DIVER watches from Bell & Ross have been very popular ever since they were introduced in 2018, combining the iconic square case shape that has been a brand signature, with diving functionality.

The bronze models in particular have proven to be the most popular variations of the DIVER since the material suits the large 42mm case well and the enthusiast friendly property of bronze being able to patina with exposure to the environment.

Along the way there have been dial variations of the Diver Bronze with blue, green, red and brown dials having made an appearance over the years. The new version with a white dial matched with a brown bezel is perhaps the most elegantly appointed one, and would perhaps be most suited to ice divers looking for penguins in Antarctica.

Bell & Ross BR 05 Green Gold


Gold, as a case material, has only appeared a smattering of times in the many years that Bell and Ross has been around, which makes sense since aviation themed watches have been the primary focus of the brand. For pilots, whether flying military or airline jets, only hard wearing materials like stainless steel and titanium are more appropriate to the working environment of a cockpit.

That was of course until the introduction of the BR-05 Collection in 2019 which is more elegant sports chic than pure sports in orientation. For a collection like this, it makes sense to offer more gold options since these are watches meant to be worn in more formal and dressy environments.

With a number of variations already available from the launch of the BR-05 collection, with black (2019), blue (2020), and skeleton (2021) dial options, Bell & Ross has decided to add a new green variant this year for Watches & Wonders 2023. This tone of the green is deep and extremely luxurious in feel, and it comes either on a matching green leather strap or a full rose gold bracelet.


Alpine Eagle Cadence 8 HF and Alpine Eagle XPS

It’s nice to see that the Alpine Eagle collection has matured to a point that new technologies from the research efforts at the Chopard workshops are being introduced within it. The highlight feature of the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8 HF (left) is in the name. The “8HF” represents the high frequency 8Hz movement (calibre 01.12-C) that beats within the watch that delivers a 60 hours power reserve from a movement just 4.95 mm thick.

What does a rate of 8Hz or 57,600 vibrations per hour mean? Well for context, most modern mechanical movements beat at a rate of 4Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour, with only a handful of brands managing up to 5Hz or 36,600 beats per hour. This means that this new Chopard calibre is twice as fast and still manages a competitive modern power reserve.

Not to be outdone, however, is the new variant of the Alpine Eagle XPS which comes this time round with a dial that Chopard calls ‘Monte Rosa Pink’, a hue of rose gold inspired by the second-tallest mountain range of the Alps of the same name. This color adorns a finish design that is inspired by the iris of an eagle, all on a gold base with Roman numerals and indexes coated with Super-LumiNova.

The movement in the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is the more traditionally oriented L.U.C 96.40-L, a signature movement from the brand that is 3.3mm thick and features a 22k yellow gold micro-rotor visible from the sapphire caseback. It is also fittingly finished to Geneva Seal standard and is, like all L.U.C movements, COSC chronometer certified.

Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph

Chopard’s Mille Miglia collection has had the unique trait of having existed continuously since the brand became the world sponsor and official timekeeper of 1000 Miglia classic car race way back in 1988. Over the 35 year span of the partnership, Chopard has introduced watches in the Mille Miglia collection to commemorate each of the races, with the Maison’s Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, having personally taken part in the race every year since 1989.

The new Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph for 2023 comes to the fore with several aesthetic changes over the previous year’s model, that aim to give the new series of watches a more elegant feel overall. The most significant change is the reduction in size from 42mm to 40.5mm over the previous year’s model, as well as a pronounced glass box crystal, slimmer lugs and slimmer profile.

Coming as well in the brand’s proprietary Lucent Steel™, the new watches come with a range of dial variations that reference traditional racing such as Verde Chiaro (light green) and Rosso Amarena (cherry red), each with a circular satin-brushed finish, or in Nero Corsa (racing black) with an engine-turned finish. Meanwhile, the bi-material version in Lucent Steel™ and ethical gold has a dial in circular satin-brushed Grigio-Blue (gray blue).


Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph by Montblanc is easily the most desirable Montblanc watch for those who appreciate the historic Minerva chronograph movements.

The headline feature of this watch is that it takes the sublime aesthetics of the traditional Minerva chronograph movement and reverses it to the dial side. What this does is to allow the visual enjoyment of the movement directly on the wrist without having to take the watch off. It is as much a technical achievement as it is an aesthetic one as reversing a watch movement requires reversing the direction of the hands as well, which requires an additional 21 extra components to the basic movement.

This latest version of the watch comes in a distressed steel case, which gives it a modern and casual appearance as compared to the previous versions of this watch launched last year in Lime Gold and regular stainless steel.

The distressed finish is achieved by first giving a 43mm stainless steel case a black coating, after which the case is washed and brushed with a quartzite material from the namesake mountain – Mont-Blanc, as well as with limestones from the “V”-shaped mountain opposite the Villeret Manufacture, called La Combe Grède. Given the nature of the treatment, each watch has its own individual patina and appearance.

This new 88 piece limited edition version comes with a white gold fluted bezel inspired by Minerva’s first fluted bezel that dates back to 1927, adding a new level of finesse to the model. It is fitted with a black nubuck alligator strap with a distressed steel triple-folding clasp, and includes a caseback featuring an engraving of the historic Minerva Manufacture.

1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva LE 28 and LE 100 (blue and green)

The two versions of Montblanc’s 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva LE 28 and LE 100 were created to celebrate the heritage of Minerva with an unexpected technical innovation.

At first glance, one might question why there are no pushers in what is obviously a chronograph watch. The answer lies in the elegant 18K gold fluted bezel, which is the mechanism by which one activates the chronograph – with start, start and rest are all activated by clicking the bezel,

This hidden feature respects the beauty of the historic first chronograph calibre by Minerva – the 13.20 – that was introduced in 1923, while incorporating modern-day know-how in this upgraded version – the 13.21 – to create a contemporary timepiece.

The watch further celebrates Minerva’s 165 year history with a caseback engraved with the years of various important turning points in the brand’s existence. Available in two limited edition versions – the first comes in a stainless steel case with an 18K white gold bezel, blue dial, and red accents. And limited to 100 pieces. The second limited edition is housed in a Lime Gold case and features a dark green dial, and comes in a more exclusive limited edition of 28 pieces.

TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39 mm

The 60th anniversary of the iconic TAG Heuer Carrera races into the present with two new designs coming in with a 39mm case diameter and with a blue or black dial configuration. At the forefront of these anniversary editions is the ‘glassbox’ design that references the domed hesalite crystals of Heuer Carrera models from the 1970’s.

The crystal in this modern incarnation is in sapphire and flows entirely over the case, and with the similarly curved flange with tachymeter and indexes, allowing a clear view of the dial indications from all angles, a useful trait as a watch used when worn on the wrist of a racing driver.

They are powered by a revamped in-house movement – the TH20-00 that features a bi-directional skeletonized rotor shaped like the TAG Heuer shield. The black dial configuration offers silvered sub dials to evoke the black and white ‘Panda’ configuration; the blue dial version is uniform in hue throughout, although the subdials are differentiated by concentric circles texture within.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon 42mm

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon breaks from the aesthetics of the previous generation of tourbillon chronographs from TAG Heuer, which began with the Carrera Heuer 02T Tourbillon back in 2015.

The new model instead follows the design concept from the aforementioned Carrera Chronograph 39mm, with a vintage look taken after the Heuer Carrera watches from the 1970’s. This Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is slightly larger at 42mm however, but on the wrist it wears very similarly compared to the 39mm and much easier when compared to older Carrera Heuer 02T Tourbillon at 45mm.

The new Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon comes with the new TH02-09 Automatic COSC calibre which is an evolved version of the Heuer 02T Tourbillon. Like the predecessor as well, both are chronometer certified, which is unique in the world of tourbillon watches generally.


Tudor Black Bay GMT 2023

Black Bay GMT

When the Black Bay GMT was launched in 2018, it easily became one of the most popular watches in the Tudor line due to the range of features it had. Aside from the true in-house manufacture GMT movement, allowing easy setting of the hour hand on the fly when traveling, it also had a robust 41mm case with 200 metres of water resistance and a date complication.

The new version for Watches & Wonders 2023 builds on that popularity, coming with what Tudor describes as a “whimsical dial in opaline” to match the “distinctive burgundy and blue bezel”.

Yet, insiders will know that this new colourway references a very rare and as yet unproven watch from history, the mythical Albino dial GMT Masters that were made by Rolex for Pan AM airlines. It is well known that when Pan AM asked Rolex to come up with a new model that could be used for pilots who needed to reference different time-zones when working, it was the GMT Master that was created.

While the black dial version would go on to become the cultural icon we know today. Legend has it that a small batch of white dial GMT Masters were created for Pan AM management. Whether this legend turns out to be true or not, the new Black Bay GMT is certainly a handsome watch all on its own and a handsome alternative to the black dial version that already exists in the line-up.

Tudor Black Bay 54 2023

Black Bay 54

The Black Bay 54 will no doubt be a popular watch since it is the most faithful recreation of the Tudor reference 7922 from 1954. Like its predecessor, this model comes with a 37mm wide case, which might seem small in modern times, but does surprisingly come with a good amount of wrist presence all the same.

The effect is stark when the details are carefully observed. The Black Bay 54 loses its visible crown tube, unlike other Tudor Black Bays, it has its crown flush with the case. There are also no minute hash marks on the bezel, which adds to the old-school look.

Vintage lovers will love the fact that details like these have been preserved in the aesthetics, yet will be able to use the watch as you would any current watch, with its modern build quality, 200 metres of water resistance and TUDOR’s time-only Manufacture Calibre MT5400.

Tudor Black Bay 2023

Black Bay Master Chronometer

The Tudor Black Bay has been Tudor’s most popular collection ever since the brand was relaunched into the public consciousness almost a decade ago. Throughout this time, it has represented the best of Tudor and has been continually upgraded and refined over many iterations over the years.

The latest offering from the Black Bay is easily the best one yet as the watch has without doubt the most technically advanced and rigorous specification in the line up.

Taking after the Black Bay Ceramic which debuted with the same attributes, the new standard Black Bay has also been upgraded with the MT5602-U which is both COSC and METAS certified, ensuring elevated levels of chronometer rated accuracy, anti-magnetic performance, quality and durability. In order to reflect this higher level of performance inherent in the new watch, you will be able to find the words “Master Chronometer” on the dial.


Defy Revival Shadow

The new Defy Revival Shadow by Zenith is a watch that references the iconic A3642 from 1969, with its signature angular case that instantly communicates the era in which it emerged. Yet this new version by Zenith can be considered a modern reimagining of the same watch in an alternate timeline of history because it is crafted in a material that could not have been used in watchmaking when it was first introduced.

It is the lightweight and extremely strong Grade 5 titanium that forms the basis for the case and the iconic “ladder” bracelet of the watch. The titanium as well has been micro-blasted to reveal the intrinsic darker tone of the material, which presents a muted and monolithic look that is as attractive as it is thought-provoking in the context of its design.

Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph

With Zenith being famous for building one of the most important chronograph calibers ever made – the El Primero – as well as a storied history of watches made for aviation, it’s no surprise that one of the headline launches for this year is the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph.

There are two versions of the watch in different case materials, and both contain a brand new version of the El Primero 3600 calibre and come in a 42.5mm case.

The stainless steel version references a famous model from Zenith’s history – the “Rainbow Flyback Chronograph” from 1997 which was originally made with input from the French Air Force. Like its inspiration – the new Pilot Big Date Flyback watch features a minute totalizer with alternating colors in order to allow quick reading of elapsed minutes as well as having all the chronograph hands in a bright orange tone.

The black ceramic version of the Pilot Big Date Flyback goes for a more utilitarian look with luminescent white markers and hands contrasting boldly against the opaline black corrugated dial, giving a more modern day stealth fighter feel than the stainless steel version.

Both watches also, above the 6 o’clock position, have a Big Date complication, something which has featured on previous Zenith pilot watches as well that performs its instantaneous jump at midnight. Along with this as part of the new El Primero 3652 automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre that beats at 5Hz is its flyback function, a nod to the request from the French Air Force for its inclusion in the original Rainbow Flyback from 1997.

Defy Skyline Skeleton Ceramic and Defy Skyline Ceramic

The Defy Skyline collection is relatively new for Zenith since it was only introduced in 2022. It is a collection that represents the future of Zenith, with bold designs that reference futuristic themes, as well as combining cutting-edge manufacture movements with advanced forms and materials.

The two new watches in the Defy Skyline collection, the Defy Skyline Skeleton Ceramic and the Defy Skyline Ceramic both adhere to the directive of the collection, not only coming with the latest generation El Primero high-frequency calibers but also in sleek black ceramic.

The choice of ceramic for the new watches imbues the watches with a modern look, which goes well with the technical properties of the material, being extremely scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic. The black ceramic applies to the entire watch – case and bracelet as well, and is definitely a perfect addition to the Defy Skyline collection.

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