When TUDOR develops a watch for the French Navy, you know it’s built for real-world demands, where precision and functionality are paramount under some of the harshest conditions imaginable. With the new Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”, TUDOR elevates its rugged, high-performance, built-for-the-job Pelagos FXD platform from deep-sea missions to the high skies, equipping aviators and ground support teams with a timepiece as uncompromising as their missions. We’re talking about the ultimate evolution of a serious timekeeper here, first made for pros in the French Naval Aviation and designed to endure the extreme demands of military operations.
This isn’t your typical GMT tool watch. It’s designed specifically with the needs of French Naval Aviation in mind – a true multitasker that can track three time zones, including the all-important Zulu time (known as UTC to civilians), which is the standard reference time used by all aviators no matter where they are in the world. Far from a fancy add-on, it’s an operational must-have for anyone navigating the globe – or simply wanting to stay impeccably on time, with military precision. So, whether you’re cruising at 30,000 feet or navigating your day-to-day, this is the watch you’ll want on your wrist.
A Deep Dive into Aviation
TUDOR’s been outfitting the French Navy since the ’50s with reliable dive watches that have become legends in their own right. This relationship goes back to the early Oyster Prince Submariner models, built for the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (English for Underwater Study and Research Group). These watches were tested and proven to handle extreme depths and pressure.
TUDOR rekindled its historic collaboration with the French Navy in 2021, a reunion that felt like reuniting with an old friend. The Pelagos FXD was born from this renewed alliance. Developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s elite combat swimmers, the watch was designed to meet the rigorous demands of underwater missions with features that weren’t just cool, but mission critical. With the Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”, TUDOR shifts its sights to the skies, expanding the FXD family to meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale, the French Naval Aviation branch. Think of it as the watch that jumped out of the water and took flight.
All the Right Stuff
Lets discuss the specifications of this watch, which makes it truly impressive. Measuring 42mm, the satin-brushed grade 2 titanium case is pure muscle – built from a single block with fixed strap bars that are part of the case itself (hence the FXD, or FiXeD, name). This means it’s designed to stay put even if you’re plunging into the ocean or ejecting from a jet (hopefully not – but it’s ready if you are).
The dial is where things get interesting. Contrasting against the matte black dial and applied beige hour markers is a bright orange lacquered 24-hour arrow-head hand that keeps you connected to Zulu Time. It glows green in the dark thanks to Swiss Super-LumiNova®. TUDOR’s commitment to legibility ensures the other hour markers and hands emit a contrasting blue glow, making it ridiculously easy to differentiate time zones at a glance. It’s all about giving pilots – and you – instant clarity, no matter how low the lighting or how high the pressure.
Of course, there’s the classic Snowflake hour hand, a TUDOR dive-watch signature dating back to 1969. What’s cool here is that it’s designed to “jump” in one-hour increments, which is a major perk when you’re setting the local time on the fly. The date changes right when the hour hand crosses midnight, whether you’re moving forwards or backwards. In short, it’s made for seamless time zone hopping.
On the titanium caseback, you’ve got the Aéronautique Navale logo – a winged anchor topped with a star – as well as a historically inspired engraving indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch. TUDOR devotees will love these subtle touches that ground this timepiece in its military heritage and serve as a reminder that you’re wearing a bit of naval aviation history. And for a piece of military equipment, this watch is deceptively good-looking. But that’s the appeal of TUDOR: it makes watches that work hard and look even better doing it.
Built for Extreme Conditions
Functionality is at the heart of everything TUDOR designs, but the Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” takes this to another level. Waterproof to 200 metres and Master Chronometer-certified by METAS, this watch is a real tool, made to withstand intense conditions, while maintaining precision within five seconds per day. It even holds up against magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss (for reference, that’s the kind of magnetic resistance you get from some of the world’s most advanced anti-magnetic watches).
Underneath that military-grade titanium is the beating heart of this rugged timepiece, the Calibre MT5652-U. No run-of-the-mill movement here, we’re talking Swiss-made, COSC-certified, and fortified to handle the worst you can throw at it. Featuring a 65-hour power reserve, it’s weekend-proof too, so if you want to take it off Friday night and throw it back on Monday morning, you’re good to go without having to wind it.
A Nod to the Past
Historically, the French Navy received their TUDOR watches without straps and fitted them with their own – handmade or otherwise. Over time, two styles emerged as signatures: the first was made from a single piece of braided black nylon, while the less common second version was fashioned from parachute elastic, instantly recognisable by its green hue with a yellow or red central thread.
With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR pays homage to these functional relics, even matching the fabric strap to the deep green of French Naval Aviation flight suits – a subtle but fitting tribute to tradition. TUDOR’s single-piece fabric strap, a brand signature since 2010, is woven in France on 19th-century jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region. Known for its superior quality, durability, and comfort, this strap embodies the robust practicality and heritage-driven design that has made the TUDOR so distinctive. The design is finished with a titanium pin buckle and removable fabric keeper embroidered with the Aéronautique Navale’s roundel, composed of the French flag’s blue, white and red colours, circled in gold and topped with a black anchor.
Seal of Approval
Securing the Master Chronometer certification demands exceptional quality. It’s the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS’ way of saying that this watch has passed one of the industry’s toughest standards (which also includes making sure it keeps precise time in six different positions and two temperatures). This guarantees that the timepiece is accurate, reliable, and able to resist everyday wear and tear. This is a watch that’ll survive just about anything – whether it’s the cockpit of a Rafale jet or a surprise thunderstorm.
Let’s not forget the five-year international warranty. TUDOR is making a bold statement about the reliability of its watches. And here’s the kicker: it’s fully transferable, with no registration required. TUDOR stands by its timepieces for the long haul, recommending a service every 10 years or so, depending on wear. It’s a quiet assurance its watches are built to keep pace with you, year after year, wherever life takes you.
Discover the TUDOR Pelagos FXD GMT online or in-store at the TUDOR boutique by Sincere Fine Watches at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, #B2M-201.