While the first part of this series focused on heritage, stone dials and poetic complications, the mood here shifts towards something more playful, theatrical and visually striking. Greubel Forsey closes the chapter on one of its most architectural tourbillons, H. Moser & Cie. transforms the Reebok Pump into a fun complication; while Jacob & Co. brings cinema and theatricality to the wrist once again with the Godfather II, the world’s first double-melody musical watch.
Different in expression yet equally spectacular in their own ways, this second instalment of our Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 roundup brings together some of the fair’s most striking creations.
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture
When the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture was first unveiled in 2022, Greubel Forsey declared the calibre would be produced for only five years and limited to 66 pieces. Having delivered 55, the maison now concludes this chapter with a final edition of 11.
The concept was uncompromising from the outset. Instead of housing a movement inside a case, the entire construction was conceived as a suspended mechanical landscape. The commanding 47.05mm titanium case integrates sapphire crystal around its full periphery, making the movement visible from every angle. As a result, light reveals depth, shadows and surfaces throughout the 354-component movement. Around the dial opening, the engraved words Architecture, Harmonie, Innovation, Technique, Bienfacture, Passion, Science, Exclusivité define the standards that shaped its creation.
At the heart of this timepiece is the inclined 24-second tourbillon that rotates at a 25° angle. Its 86-part cage weighs a barely-there 0.38 grams, while three coaxial fast rotating barrels deliver a 90-hour power reserve. A rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp lends a sporty ease to the reference.
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3
This 22-piece limited edition boasts a finishing technique never before executed at the Greubel Forsey atelier: a frosted titanium central bridge, hand-finished across its entire curved surface with a steel brush to create an exceptionally deep matte texture.
The Balancier 3’s architecture is built on structural clarity. Three prominent bridges – the barrel bridge, balance bridge and large central bridge – organise the movement into a composition, where each mechanical function is immediately legible. For this reference, the balance and barrel bridges retain their polished titanium finish, while the large central bridge features a deliberate contrast with its frosted finish. Polished bevels define its edges with precision and layered hues of blue guide the eye through the movement’s multiple depths to enhance legibility and visual drama.
At the heart of the movement lies the maison’s in-house 12.6mm variable-inertia balance wheel, fitted with six gold mean-time screws and supported by two series-coupled fast-rotating barrels delivering a 72-hour chronometric power reserve across 282 components. Meanwhile, the ergonomic Convexe titanium case measures 41.5mm across the caseband, its bezel and curved sapphire crystal following the natural contours of the wrist. The watch is presented on a handsewn textured rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp engraved with the GF logo.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pump
In the late 1980s, one orange button changed sneaker culture forever. The Reebok Pump was a gesture, attitude and moment of personalisation that made the shoe come alive. Now, H. Moser & Cie. has transposed that gesture into haute horlogerie, replacing the traditional winding crown with the Pump’s iconic orange pusher.
Each pusher press delivers more than an hour of power reserve, with the action transmitted directly to the barrel spring and reflected instantly on the power reserve display. And when the mainspring is fully wound, you can keep pressing just for the fun of it. To make this possible, Moser completely re-engineered its HMC 500 automatic movement into the new manual-winding HMC 103 calibre, its partially skeletonised bridges and fully skeletonised rack making the mechanical choreography visible with each press. The power reserve of a minimum of 74 hours is tracked by an orange disc, another wink to the fun collaboration.
The 40mm case is crafted from white or black forged quartz fibre, a material rarely seen in watchmaking. Purer than glass fibre, UV-resistant and capable of producing a unique moiré pattern on every case, no two are identical. Inside, a titanium “sarcophagus” protects the movement and ensures water resistance to 100 metres. At just 11.4mm thick, the watch wears with surprising lightness on its integrated rubber strap. Limited to 250 pieces per colour, the Streamliner Pump is serious mechanics delivered with playfulness.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
At H. Moser & Cie., complications are not hidden, but seen and heard. With the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, this philosophy reaches its most ambitious expression. Here, a fully skeletonised minute repeater with its hammers and chimes on the dial side is paired with a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring. Two pinnacles of traditional watchmaking within a 40mm titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces.
Positioning the striking mechanism on the dial side demanded a complete rethinking of the movement. With curved chimes on the same plane and every element exposed, everything had to be flawlessly executed. Boasting a 90-hour power reserve, the 415-component, hand-wound calibre HMC 909 breathes through openworked bridges and airy structures, the eye drawn freely through layers of mechanical depth. At 2 o’clock, a single stroke of colour interrupts the transparency: a small domed Funky Blue fumé subdial bearing the Moser logo in transparent lacquer like a secret signature at the heart of the mechanics.
The case itself is an instrument, hollowed to act as a resonating chamber. Titanium’s low damping properties preserve vibrational energy rather than absorb it to deliver a chime that is fuller, longer and more precisely placed. Suspended within this architecture, the one-minute flying tourbillon carries a cylindrical hairspring. A technique from 18th-century marine chronometers revived by Precision Engineering AG, it is shaped entirely by hand, a process 10 times more demanding than a conventional spring.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum strips the complication down to its core. No logo or indices, just the essentials presented with minimalistic clarity. What sets this stunning version apart is the use of tantalum, not just for the case but the dial as well.
Discovered in 1802, tantalum is dense, hard yet ductile and requires advanced metallurgical expertise to machine as its melting point is almost 3,000°C. When exposed to air, it forms its own protective oxide layer without tarnishing. Machined from solid metal and finished with a brushed sunburst texture, it is left completely untreated with no lacquer or coating here, allowing the material’s natural dark grey tone and subtle bluish reflections to shift with the light.
The perpetual calendar is designed to be intuitive, adjustable forwards and backwards at any time via the crown. A large date at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and discreet central hand indicating the months keep everything legible without clutter. Powering the stark timepiece is the hand-wound HMC 800 calibre with a seven-day power reserve. Limited to 50 pieces, it is a minimalist take on one of haute horlogerie’s most revered complications.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Two Hands
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Two Hands proves that smaller does not always mean simpler. Offered in 28mm and 34mm case sizes, it rethinks the Streamliner for more slender wrists, while keeping the same level of watchmaking integrity. As the name suggests, the display is reduced to just hours and minutes. But the dials are where things come alive. Finished with a frosted texture and gradient fumé effect in silver or burgundy, they shift constantly with the light, giving depth to an otherwise minimal layout.
The steel case and integrated bracelet retain the familiar Streamliner form, refined here for better ergonomics at smaller sizes. Despite the compact dimensions, both elegant models are fitted with automatic movements – the HMC 410 for the 28mm and HMC 400 for the 34mm – each offering around 60 hours of power reserve.
Jacob & Co. The Godfather II
Jacob & Co. returns to one of its most beloved themes with The Godfather II, the world’s first double-melody musical timepiece that plays two of Nino Rota’s iconic compositions from Francis Ford Coppola’s masterpiece – The Godfather Love Theme and The Godfather’s Waltz. The bold masterpiece is a product of three years of development, 510 components and a level of rich cinematic storytelling expressed through horology.
The innovation at the heart of the new JCAM62 calibre is as elegant as it is ingenious. Both melodies are programmed onto a single music box barrel. A lateral shift of less than a millimetre, controlled by the melody selector at 10 o’clock, determines which of the 18-toothed comb’s pins are engaged. A pusher at 8 o’clock activates each 15- to 20-second performance, repeatable up to 10 times on a single wind. Two separate power reserve indicators track the movement’s 72-hour reserve and the music box’s remaining energy independently. A one-minute flying tourbillon completes this incredible mechanical ensemble.
The 42mm by 44mm Art Deco-inspired rose gold case is richly detailed: a black lacquer dial anchored by a portrait of Don Corleone, puppet strings in three-dimensional appliqué, a crown styled after a gun barrel and caseback engraved with bullet holes and overlaid with the actual score of The Godfather Love Theme. For founder Jacob Arabo, The Godfather was the first film he saw in a cinema after arriving in America as a 14-year-old immigrant. That personal resonance runs through every one of the 74 pieces of the watch, a number chosen to honour the film’s release in 1974.
Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Crystal
The visually captivating Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Crystal by Jacob & Co. replaces every external case component with solid, lab-grown corundum or sapphire, achieving 360-degree transparency with absolute clarity. Two unique pieces exist: one in the house’s signature green and another in baby blue, founder Jacob Arabo’s favourite colour.
Crafting a case from sapphire – ranked 9 on the Mohs hardness scale and surpassed only by diamond – demands over 800 hours of intensive machining per piece. Too slow and the material resists; too fast and it cracks. Each component is cut, shaped, drilled and polished from a solid block of the material, with gold details completing the construction.
Through this crystalline shell, each element of the JCAM55 calibre’s hypercar narrative is visible from every angle, with the centrepiece being the V16 engine block automaton. Carved from transparent sapphire, its 16 titanium pistons are driven by a single-axis crankshaft. One press of the crown-integrated pusher brings the engine to life for a 20-second sequence, repeatable up to 20 times on a full wind.
The dial mirrors a Bugatti instrument panel: a 30-second flying tourbillon on the left, retrograde jumping hours and minutes at the centre echoing the RPM counter and dual power reserve indicators on the right – one for the movement’s 80-hour reserve, the other for the automaton.
Whether expressed through cinematic storytelling, unexpected playfulness or architectural precision, these timepieces reflect a creative spirit that defines independent watchmaking today. Unbound by convention, each maison continues to shape its own narrative — one that extends beyond timekeeping, into expression, emotion and identity. Explore more brands online, visit our boutiques, or book an appointment to learn more.