The final chapter of our three-part independent maison roundup from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 follows Part 1’s heritage and poetic complications, and Part 2’s storytelling, playfulness and architectural precision, and now centres on craft, technical sophistication and a world first that rethinks one of watchmaking’s most familiar complications.
Opening this chapter is KUDOKE, which puts the centuries-old art of tremblage back in focus. Parmigiani Fleurier follows with a world-first chronograph that hides in plain sight, a rose gold chronograph, three platinum anniversary pieces and the TORIC Anniversary Collection — a trio of hand-hammered gold dial watches marking 30 years since the model that started it all. Meanwhile, Sartory Billard offers two takes on the jumping hour, one that fragments light and another with a darker, moodier character.
KUDOKE
Some watches are made to be noticed; KUDOKE makes watches to be discovered. The tremblage dials of the KUDOKE 1 and KUDOKE 2 are a case in point. Meaning “to tremble” or “to vibrate” in French, tremblage is one of haute horlogerie’s most demanding surface treatments, named for the precise motion used to work the dial by hand with a fine graver or burin over countless passes. At KUDOKE, every step, including electroplating, is done in-house, and each dial is one-of-a-kind.
Both 39mm references are available in a stainless steel or rose gold case with three galvanic colour variations for the dial: yellow gold, black rhodium and white rhodium. Powering the timepieces is the Kaliber 1-24h, a manual-winding movement with a 46-hour power reserve.
Here, the engraved surface frames a clean, classical dial. The small seconds can either stand out as a circular-grained subdial or blend seamlessly into the tremblage surface, offering two distinct looks from the same technique. Applied rhodium-plated indices rise cleanly from the dial, creating a gentle contrast between depth and clarity.
The KUDOKE 2 builds on the same technique, but introduces a more expressive complication. Here, the tremblage dial serves as a backdrop for the brand’s signature day/night display with a sculpted celestial motif of sun, moon and stars. The textured surface enhances the depth of this display, allowing the elements to stand out without overwhelming the dial.
Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Chronographe Mystérieux
A chronograph that hides – that is the central idea behind Parmigiani Fleurier’s third world premiere in four years… and it is a more radical proposition than it sounds. The TONDA PF Chronographe Mystérieux looks exactly like a three-hand watch at rest with a clean dial and no subdials. The chronograph is there, but invisible, folded into the movement until it is activated on demand.
One press of a monopusher between 7 and 8 o’clock deploys three rhodium-plated hands in an instantaneous flyback to 12 o’clock, while rose gold civil time hands appear simultaneously. The entire dial becomes the chronograph display. A second press stops and reads. A third press withdraws everything – the hands realign with current time and the dial returns to what it was before.
Developed specifically for this steel iteration, the calibre PF053 is built around a triple clutch construction comprising one vertical and two horizontal clutches, managing 362 components across a 6.9mm profile. Running at 4Hz with a 60-hour power reserve, it is finished according to the maison’s exacting standards, with a 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight, alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces, and openworked bridges with satin-finishing and bevelled edges.
The dial execution is, as expected from Parmigiani Fleurier, immaculate. Rendered in Mineral Blue with the maison’s signature handcrafted Grain d’Orge guilloché, it is framed by a knurled platinum bezel and presented on an integrated steel bracelet.
Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Chronograph 40mm
The Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Chronograph 40mm refines the classic chronograph by focusing on proportion, material and light. Crafted in rose gold, it brings a warmer, more understated presence to the TONDA PF collection, while maintaining its signature balance.
The ultra-wearable case size is compact enough to sit comfortably on the wrist and substantial enough to carry the chronograph architecture with clarity. The absence of a date keeps the dial clean, allowing the subdials and layout to remain the focus without distraction. The Mineral Blue dial adds depth through its hand-guilloché Grain d’Orge pattern. It catches and diffuses light continuously, giving the surface a sense of movement.
Driving the watch is the PF070 manufacture calibre that runs at a high frequency of 5 Hz, delivering precise chronograph timing down to 1/10th of a second. COSC-certified and just under 7mm in height, it offers a 65-hour power reserve.
Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Platinum Anniversary Trilogy
Thirty years of independent watchmaking; three watches in 950 platinum, each limited to 30 pieces. Parmigiani Fleurier marks the occasion with what it does best – complications that disappear when you don’t need them.
The TONDA PF anniversary trilogy of 40mm watches share a common thread. Each houses a sophisticated function that reveals itself on demand, then withdraws, leaving the dial as clean as it was before. Built entirely in platinum, including the case, knurled bezel, integrated bracelet, all three timepieces feature sandblasted dials that keep the focus on legibility. While each iteration is a 30-piece limited edition, they can be acquired as a complete set as well.
Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante
Reading a second time zone on a clean dial has always been a design challenge and Parmigiani Fleurier’s solution? Make the function a momentary one. When activated, a dedicated hand appears on demand, shows the second time, then retracts the instant it is no longer needed. Local time remains central and uninterrupted throughout; the dial never presents two competing displays at once.
Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante
Inspired by the scuba countdown function, the Minute Rattrapante focuses on short intervals rather than long measurements. A secondary minute hand can be activated to track a specific moment – a short meeting, timed task or pause within the day – before returning to align perfectly with the main minute hand. Unlike a traditional chronograph, it does not interrupt the reading of time. The complication runs alongside it, then disappears without a trace. The effect is subtle, intuitive and closely tied to everyday functionality.
Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Chronographe Mystérieux
Like the steel version with the Mineral Blue dial, it appears as a three-hand watch at rest, its sandblasted dial revealing nothing of the chronograph within. Pressing the monopusher at between 7 and 8 o’clock sends three rhodium-plated hands to 12 o’clock to measure hours, minutes and seconds across the full dial, while rose gold hands continue to show civil time. A second press stops the timing; a third withdraws the chronograph hands, realigning them with the current time before they disappear.
Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC Anniversary Collection
The TORIC is where Parmigiani Fleurier began. It was the first timepiece to bear the maison’s name – a dress watch shaped by classical architecture, precise proportions and exceptional craft. To commemorate its 30th anniversary, the brand returns to this design with three new pieces, each limited to 30. The trio is united by dials that showcase a rare decorative technique revived by the brand: hand-hammered gold.
The laborious process involves some 60 individual operations, with each hand-applied strike displacing the metal, while maintaining the perfect flatness a dial requires. No two are identical; the result is a surface that catches light differently from every angle. It is not decorative in the conventional sense, but has a life that printed or machined finishes cannot replicate.
Behind these dials, the manual-winding movements are equally impressive, with solid rose gold bridges – far more demanding to machine than steel or brass – decorated with double hand-guilloché combining Clou de Paris and Filet sauté that can be admired through an open caseback.
Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC Petite Seconde
The TORIC Petite Seconde is the purest expression of the trilogy. Its Morning Blue dial is crafted from white gold and finished by hand with a hammered texture that catches light softly, its only complication a snailed small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Housed in a 40.6mm platinum case, the display stays simple and intentionally so. Inside, the manually wound calibre PF780 is structured by two large bridges in solid rose gold, decorated with a double hand-guilloché motif.
Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC Quantième Perpétuel
Also in a 40.6mm case size, the TORIC Quantième Perpétuel brings calendar intelligence into the same refined language. Kept running, its perpetual calendar automatically accounts for different month lengths and leap years and needs correction only in 2100. Its Bright Peony dial is crafted from rose gold and hand-hammered, with two subdials at 4 and 8 o’clock organising the day, date, month and leap year displays. Powered by the PF733 calibre with a 60-hour power reserve, it balances complexity with clarity.
Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC Chronographe Rattrapante
The 42.5mm TORIC Chronographe Rattrapante is the most technical of the three. A split-seconds chronograph that can time two simultaneous events with different end points – operating at 5Hz for measurements to 1/10th of a second. The calibre PF361 comprises 285 components and two column wheels with a 65-hour power reserve. Its openworked rose gold architecture sets polished steel chronograph components against warm gold surfaces. The dial is hand-hammered white gold in Agave Blue and is framed by a platinum case with a knurled bezel.
Sartory Billard SB10 Jumping Hour – Disco Ball
Launched to mark the French independent brand’s 10th year, the SB10 is a watch without a dial and hands. Time is read entirely through two ultra-thin sapphire discs, each around 0.2mm thin. At 6 o’clock, a large aperture displays the jumping hour in a custom typeface designed for the brand. The minutes run on a separate disc orbiting a central cabochon, its peripheral ring coated in Super-LumiNova that glows turquoise in the dark.
The cabochon is the centrepiece. In this edition, it features a guilloché pattern of hundreds of micro-facets that fragments light with every wrist movement. Polished, textured and designed to be touched, it’s as much tactile object as a visual one. Inside, the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 calibre with a 55-hour power reserve drives a patented jumping hour module. The 39.5mm stainless steel case keeps everything in proportion.
Sartory Billard SB10 Jumping Hour – Black Sapphire
The Sartory Billard SB10 Jumping Hour – Black Sapphire keeps the same radical architecture as the Disco Ball edition, but takes on a very different character. Where the Disco Ball plays with light, this version moves towards depth and transparency, using a dark sapphire cabochon that gives the watch a stealthier, moodier presence.
Time is still displayed without hands. A large aperture at 6 o’clock reveals the jumping hour on a sapphire disc, switching instantly every 60 minutes, while the minutes rotate smoothly around the cabochon on a second sapphire disc. At the centre, the black sapphire cabochon replaces a traditional dial. Polished and slightly domed, it plays with light in a more subtle way – absorbing and reflecting rather than fragmenting it – creating a sense of depth in place of sparkle. Also housed in a 39.5mm steel case and powered by the same automatic movement with a jumping hour module, it’s a more understated take on the SB10 concept.
From tactile craftsmanship to mechanical ingenuity and reimagined complications, this final roundup reflects how independent watchmakers continue to reinterpret tradition in their own distinct language, underscoring the depth and diversity of independent watchmaking today. Explore more brands online, visit our boutiques, or book an appointment to learn more.